Gan and Briskness

Gan and Briskness
Why traditional black tea drinkers from around the world would love Shui Xian

I don’t consider myself a traditional black tea drinker, but over my career in tea I have met many people, from many cultures, that I would characterize as such. When these folks introduce me to the black tea that they drink, they are invariably a powerhouse of mulchy, acidic, briskness. The aroma of the tea makes my cheeks tense up in hesitation, and hours after drinking them, I feel the effects of the acidity messing with my gut. I often wonder – what’s the allure in these teas? Do these people just not know that better teas are out there? They represent such a basic flavor and are riddled with downsides. I digress.

Some of the samples that were included with my recent purchases are known as yancha, the ‘rock teas’ from the Wuyi mountains of China. Shui xian, a variety of rock tea and a favorite ‘end game’ oolong tea for many afficionados was the first of the samples to try.

I wondered how I haven’t noticed this before, the ‘basic’ mulchy, acidic, brisk notes of these traditional black teas I mentioned was loud and clear in this sample of shui xian. It’s not that this is a one-off either, it met my expectations, nothing was new, nor surprising. Although the opening act was uncannily similar to a simple black tea, where it differed was at the climax. There was a plot twist. Once you swallow the tea you’re introduced to layers of bittersweet flavor in the world of spice, wood, and roast – nothing specific, but certainly much more interesting than ‘tea’.

This notion of bittersweetness in the finish is known as ‘gan’ – and gan is a big deal in Chinese tea. I’ve heard people claim that ‘tea without gan is not good tea’. I won’t make such a statement, but gan certainly has its hardcore followers.

Putting myself in the shoes of a typical black tea movie-goer, I felt as if I have been watching linear, predictable films all my life and am finally seeing the concept of a ‘twist’. Why can’t all movies do this!? An ending like this is surely better than a totally predictable story, no?

If you or someone you know is a ‘traditional black tea drinker’ and you wanted them to gaze into the deeper (dare I say more exciting) world of tea, shui xian is a fantastic choice because it strikes just the right balance of new and familiar.

Once somebody knows this world exists, it’s only a matter of time before they will start hunting for variations, to which you could offer Da Hong Pao, Taiwanese Aged Oolongs, Phoenix Dan Cong’s, Pu’Erh, or even Houjicha.

All of that being said, I don’t sell Shui Xian, and I have really no ambition to start. This was just an observation from being a player in the game. Take it as you will! Cheers!